Diatoms (brown algae) in a new planted tank: why they come and go

Published October 15, 2026Not yet reviewed by the editor6 sources

Short answer

The brown coating that covers glass, leaves and substrate one to three weeks after set-up is usually diatoms, algae whose cell walls are made of silica [1, 3]. Aquasabi calls them a normal part of the cycling phase that green algae usually crowd out within weeks [1]. Wipe or siphon them off; if they persist in an established tank, test the water for silicate [1].

What the brown film is

Diatoms are single-celled algae that, in the words of the Diatoms of North America project, live in houses made of glass: they are the only organisms with cell walls of transparent, opaline silica [3]. They photosynthesize with chlorophylls a and c [3], which gives a coating of them its golden to chocolate-brown color.

In an aquarium they form brown layers on everything: substrate, equipment, plant leaves, decoration, and the glass, where they can be stubborn in low-light tanks [1]. Aquasabi points out that the common name “brown algae” is wrong in the strict sense: true brown algae, the Phaeophyceae, are a separate group that, with a few exceptions, does not occur in fresh water [1].

Why they appear in new tanks

Aquasabi describes a typical timeline for a new planted tank. The first week usually stays clean; from the second week brown coats appear, followed by green thread algae and green films [2]. Its diatom page puts the brown phase at one to three weeks after set-up and calls it absolutely normal, needing no countermeasures [1].

Two conditions favor them at that stage:

  • Silica in the water. Diatoms need dissolved silica to build their cell walls, and tap water with a high silicate level gives them material to multiply [1]. The US Geological Survey’s reference text on water chemistry gives the most common range of silica in natural water as 1 to about 30 mg/L, with up to 100 mg/L not unusual in some ground water [4]. It also notes that diatoms extract silica from the water they grow in, which visibly lowers it in some lakes and reservoirs [4].
  • No competition. In a young tank there are few other algae and microorganisms to compete with, and newly planted stock is still adapting from its nursery form, so it grows slowly [2, 1].

Our reading of the “they disappear by themselves” pattern (an inference, not a sourced finding): a new tank starts with a reservoir of silica from fresh tap water and a near-empty biofilm, which suits diatoms; as plants and green algae establish, the competition for light and surfaces shifts.

What clears them

  • Wait, and wipe. Aquasabi expects green algae to crowd diatoms out within a few weeks of set-up, after which they usually do not return; meanwhile, siphon or wipe off the brown layers [1].
  • Grazers. Aquasabi notes that algae-eating snails and shrimp readily eat diatoms [1], and Tropica’s treatment for algal films is a varied population of algae eaters plus a soft sponge on the glass [5]. Tropica ran a grazing test on tiles coated with green algae and diatoms; Amano shrimp were about twice as efficient as a Neritina snail and six times as efficient as a cherry shrimp [6].
  • Plant mass. Planting densely from the start with fast-growing species, and adding floating plants or hornwort for a while, is Aquasabi’s general advice for the cycling phase [2]. Hornwort and floating plants have their own profiles.

If they will not go away

A diatom film that persists in an established tank with enough grazers is, according to Aquasabi, a reason to test silicate [1]. If it is high, the options are reverse-osmosis water, which contains only traces of silicate, or filter media that remove it. Aquasabi warns that those media also take out a lot of phosphate, which can harm plant growth [1]; if you use them, check phosphate and adjust dosing with the fertilizer dosing calculator.

A brown film that smells, comes off in slimy sheets and turns dark blue-green is more likely cyanobacteria.

Questions

Are diatoms the same as brown algae?

No. Aquarists call them brown algae because of their color, but true brown algae (Phaeophyceae) are a different group that, with few exceptions, does not occur in fresh water [1].

Does reverse-osmosis water help?

Aquasabi suggests reverse-osmosis water or silicate-removing filter media for a permanent diatom problem, and warns that such media also strip phosphate, which plants need [1].

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Related guides

Sources

  1. Brown algae (Diatoms). Aquasabi (aquascaping wiki). Appear one to three weeks after set-up; normal in cycling phase; crowded out by green algae; need silicate; check silicate in established tanks; RO water or silicate media (which also lower phosphate); not true brown algae. Accessed October 12, 2026.
  2. Algae in the cycling phase. Aquasabi (aquascaping wiki). First week usually clean; brown coats from the second week; thread algae and green coats follow; plant densely with fast growers, use floating plants or hornwort. Accessed October 12, 2026.
  3. What are diatoms?. Diatoms of North America (diatoms.org). Algae with cell walls of opaline silica; photosynthetic with chlorophylls a and c; species have distinct pH and salinity ranges. Accessed October 12, 2026.
  4. Study and Interpretation of the Chemical Characteristics of Natural Water, 3rd ed. (Water-Supply Paper 2254), p. 73. Hem, J.D., U.S. Geological Survey (1985). Silica most commonly 1 to about 30 mg/L in natural water, up to 100 mg/L in some ground water; median 14 mg/L surface, 17 mg/L ground water (Davis 1964); diatoms extract silica. Accessed October 12, 2026.
  5. Types of algae. Tropica Aquarium Plants. Algal layers are thin coatings of one-celled diatoms, red and green algae; treat with a varied population of algae eaters and a soft sponge on the glass. Accessed October 12, 2026.
  6. Test of algae eaters. Tropica Aquarium Plants. Tropica's grazing test on tiles coated with green algae and diatoms; Amano shrimp about twice as efficient as a Neritina snail and six times a cherry shrimp. Accessed October 12, 2026.